Friday, December 18, 2009

Nearly Christmas

One week until Christmas in Romania, and on my heart is gratitude.

I just returned from saying good-bye to the last North American I will see in this region until next year. A colleague walked me back through the dark streets to my apartment, and as we tossed snow glittering gold under the yellow street lights, I would not have chosen to be any other place.

Though I will ever be a foreigner, nearly half a year here finds me less a stranger. All the relationships I've formed with Romanians have woven me into this place, and among the threads, I have found a home.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

100 Steps

I wish you could come for a moment and see through my eyes, see all these images that run past the edges of language. I wish you could come with me for an hour, hear your own footsteps echoing down the stairwell, receding as you push open the heavy red door, falling silent as you step out into a different world. Today, you would see bright blue sky -- finally, after cold days of rain and heavy clouds that have sent children scampering to school under small umbrellas and thick hoods, clinging to their mothers' gloved hands. There's a school outside my window, a gradinita, or kindergarten, with white-rimmed windows. Pigeons often roost on the red-tiled roof or fly in patterns nearby, glinting grey-white when there's sun. A cement path leads up to the front door of all those years of education and cuts through a red fence that runs around the property's perimeter, separating the school from the apartment blocs. When I wake, I often go to my window and look out through the early dawn at that building. The mornings are darkening as winter nears, but still the children emerge through the dim light, trooping next to their mothers, their little feet stepping like seconds on a clock, like the seconds that will pass until they are no longer little people but big, finding their way without their mother's hand.

As you take another step, you will hear hammering, sharp strikes echoing from somewhere up above. You will pause to follow the sound, straining your eyes up past the rows of windows stacked ten floors above to the roof. A man is way up there, peering over the edge toward a pile of rubbage and boards on the ground below. You notice wires hanging around, everything just kind of a mess. You will remember that I told you the roof blew off a week ago. It had been a long story, the one I'd told you...

Last Tuesday, I had been walking home exultantly from a wonderful meeting with a new IMPACT club in the first Romanian snow of the season. One of the little beggar children who always comes up to me stepped out from one of the vendors to say hello. I was so overjoyed by the snow that I picked the child up in my arms and twirled him/her (I'm still not convinced one way or the other) around two or three times. Well, it had been extremely windy when the snow first began, and shortly after I arrived home, the wind returned with all its furious cousins. The terrace door was heaving under the strong gusts, and the trees were wipping around dramatically outside. I went to bed around 10:30 to the sound of this wind; two hours later, I awoke to the sound of crashing and shattering. Startled, I got up to investigate and walked down the hallway into a draft of cold air. Turning on the lights, I saw that the wind had blown open two of our windows, shattering one. I hadn't even known these particular windows could open, but as they were swinging wide, I was clearly unaware of their abilities. Thankfully, the shattered window was the inner of the double-pane, but the windows and their frames are so thin and poorly constructed that wind is always barreling through the cracks regardless. Closing them as best I could and assessing the broken glass, I went back to my room and opened my window to peer outside. If I had not been fully awake before, what I saw down below definitely finished the job. As it turns out, the wind had blown off part of the ROOF of my apartment bloc, sending debris careening down below into a wreckage near three parked cars. Just as I was looking down, the owners of the cars were emerging from the stairwell to move their cars out from under the mess. The view up above was even more fantastic, as a large mangled section of roof was dangling precariously off the corner of the bloc three stories over my head. Later that morning, it was quite a circus with police and firefighters hollering up from behind the red-striped tape to their colleagues on the roof who were throwing off debris and eventually sending the broken roof plummeting ten stories down to splinter on the ground.

It had been a long story, as you also recalled my waxing eloquent about the tin of hot coffee I had spilled on myself and all across the kitchen floor that same morning, though I'd proclaimed it the warmest thing I'd experienced in a week. Shaking your head and walking along the curb, you avoid the potholes that hold brown rain and nod to the older man smoking a cigarette. You walk onto a side street, past the garbage bins. You remember my telling you that the bins were new, that they hadn't been here two years ago. They are always full and overflowing on Sunday nights, various creatures nosing around what has fallen on the ground or been piled along the side. Three dogs have marked out this area as their territory -- one a doberman pinscher-type, another some kind of German-Shepard mix with a stub tail, and finally a pure-bred mutt with long, dingy white fur. As you are walking by the garbage and past the dogs, you notice a man there, hunched over in an old brown suit coat, oily grey hair sticking out from under his hat. His pants hang on him limply, and his shoes seem rather large for his feet. He doesn't notice you there, watching him -- but you wonder what he is doing, his arms reaching over the side of the garbage bin, right hand sorting through the trash with a thin metal rod. It dawns upon you that this is how he lives.

You take a few more steps and turn onto the sidewalk along the main street, walking by the corner bread shop. Adriana is there, the friend I'd told you about, the one who always coordinates her clothing to a single color. Today she's wearing yellow earrings, a yellow headband, a yellow shirt, and yellow shoes. She's thirty and married, with blond-dyed hair and a friendly exuberance that takes you in before it sends you away with fresh bread. You know she is kind by all the people who pause to visit and the ones who linger around her all day. When the weather is warm, she sits outside her shop on a cushion, one foot up on a rock, her elbow on her knee, and a handful of sunflower seeds diminishing in her palm. She offered me some when I first sat down with her there, and that was how it began -- she and I spitting shells, communicating with dramatic hand motions and laughter between all the words we couldn't say. Now she calls me prietena mea, her friend, and I stop by or wave nearly as often as I walk by her shop. We kiss each other on the cheek and laugh, asking the daily kinds of questions. Sometimes, she'll assess the forms passing on the street with a critical eye, pointing out various ones and asking my opinion, making a face or shaking her head if she disapproves. She works every other day, from dawn until dusk. On some early mornings when it is still dark, I look down out my kitchen window to her shop, and her light is surely on, illuminating the night's still-falling rain. I often stake myself out at that shop as a strange local, meeting many other people on the street that way -- and now you are one of them, walking by on the sidewalk, thinking your own thoughts, waving a hand to the woman with the blonde hair in the bread shop. You notice she's wearing blue.

Walking a few steps further, you glance at the horse plowing the small potatoe field behind a fence near the sidewalk -- and you look again. An older peasant has his hand at the plow, and a woman near him is raking the tall grass that had been cut with a scythe next to the field. Their property is a slice of land between the enclosed soccer field and Parcul Copilor, the Children's Park. What must they have thought when that soccer field went up last year, nightly games suddenly running under bright electric lights right next to their sprouting potatoes? You notice their flowers and remember that I had told you of the beautiful marigolds planted around their field in the summer, flaming orange to ward off potatoe beetles until the bitter end. Flowers also have sprung up everywhere in the Children's Park, city workers pulling enough weeds to reveal neat patterns skirting the sidewalk or to make room for beds of roses and zinnias. Metal swings and merry-go-rounds have multiplied in the playground, ticking like pendulumns and spinning like colored tops on all the sunny days. The soccer field and this park are symbols of a different, better community that is growing in Lupeni -- but the peasant plowing his field between it wears upon his back the history of the Jiu Valley. He steps upon the earth knowingly, making this soil remember all that it has held.

You pull your eyes away and step through an opening in the hedge along the street, waiting to cut across. You watch the little red Dacias, diesel trucks carrying freshly cut logs, maxi-taxis carrying people, scooters, an ATV, some sleek newer-model cars, and even a horse-drawn wagon -- and as you pause to negotiate the traffic before stepping into the road, you realize that you are standing on the edge of something much more profound.

You are standing in a different world.

Monday, September 28, 2009

It's a Monday: Part II

The series of unfortunate events that transpired this morning has already been righted! Well, mostly.

Robi may be the Romanian modern-day version of a super-hero, as he has kept me from demise more than twice. He's a professional rockclimber and fix-anything guy who knows how to put real zest into "ceau, ceau." Many of you will remember that I came down with food poisoning in the Retezat mountains two years ago, and because two others and I were too ill to trek out, Robi came careening over the narrow mountain road in his red Dacia to collect our limp frames and take us home. Seeing him emerge at Poiana Pelegii with that Dacia was one of the most blessed sights I'd seen, and even while listening to "Bette Davis Eyes" play on a repeat track of five songs over that three hour drive, Robi seemed to have plucked us from the hand of a wasting disease called cascaval cheese and sausage.

When Daniel told me that Robi would be coming around noon today, I knew the situation in the bathroom was about to meet its match. As the three of us finally stood assessing the general spread, I learned that the fantastic assemblage of pipes, valves, and cement beneath the sink actually had an explanation. Because mice had been coming up through the paneling last winter, someone had devised the solution of mixing cement with broken glass and smearing it in prodigious amounts all around the pipes. Since the pipes were thus elegantly cemented to the wall, it would have been impossible to access them without completely ripping off all the paneling.

To avoid such an extended, expensive project, Robi left to contrive his own devices and soon came back smiling with tools, paneling, drills, new tubing, and all manner of items. Oh vie, vie -- problema mare! The problem WAS big, and though the shoddy construction of these apartment blocs would leave most North Americans scratching their head as to how to fix anything, Robi was cheerily twisting washers, taking off the faucet, and making good of the situation before I could even figure out which pipes were going where. He nearly soaked himself a couple times but kept ratcheting and drilling at the problem for most of the afternoon. And now! Este foarte frumos! We laughed and proclaimed it beautiful, the new white pipes twisting almost artistically from the newly-affixed faucet and running up and over and around to the hot-water heater. Never mind that the water pressure in the sink is so low from straining up the rust-clogged pipes, that the shower head is currently held on by red masking tape, that the tub is stained various shades of brown, or that the pipes are fixed in a grave of cement and broken glass beneath the sink -- the hot water is working again, which warms me to the core.

You see, the water heater is important for more reasons than just showering with warm water or using the bathroom sink; it really is the only source of hot water in this apartment. The kitchen faucet runs cold, so to do my dishes, I first take a big plastic tub into the bathroom, fill it with hot water, and carry it back to the kitchen counter. Losing hot water for a day reminded me how grateful I am for it, however it manages to find its way up and out the pipes.

Things fall apart, but today, I am thanking God for the people who put them back together. Multumesc foarte mult, Robi.

It's a Monday

Though I try to avoid the Monday mentality, some Mondays do seem to have a mind of their own, regardless of the mindset we choose. Just to give you some perspective into my glamorous Eastern European life, here's a small anecdote from the past 24 hours:

Late last evening, the neighbor immediately below me in this stairwell came tapping at my door with a problem. Something from my bathroom was leaking into hers, and after investigating first mine and then following her downstairs to examine hers, we decided that a small pool of water on my bathroom floor was the culprit. It's an area that nearly always stays wet, but after sponging up the water, I hoped the problem would be resolved. My neighbor below was indubitably hoping the same, though she must have doubted my capacity to fix a single thing upon seeing me standing perplexed at the door in my bright purple knee socks with obnoxious pink hearts on the side.

This morning, I woke up with a start-the-day-right kind of resolve, but as I wandered into the bathroom still rubbing my eyes, an alarming sound bore into my consciousness: dripping. Oh blessed Providence, something is dripping. Pulling back the shower curtain, I saw plump water droplets heaving themselves off the bottom of the hot-water tank and plummeting down to the drain. Leaning in to examine the situation, I noticed that one of the metal pipes attached from somewhere inside the wall to the bottom of the tank was leaking. Since it appeared to just be loose, I gingerly reached up to screw it on tighter. No sooner had I even touched the little sucker, and the pipe came flying off, shooting hot scalding water onto my left hand and face. I leapt back completely stunned and watched as the only source of hot water in my apartment pounded in a pressurized stream into the bottom of the bathtub. The water was so acutely hot that steam started rolling up in clouds, filling the bathroom, seeping out the door, and hanging heavily in the hallway. Pacing in the fog bewildered, I could see that the tank was bound and determined to empty itself, and I could also see that the water pouring down a section of wall narrowly tucked alongside the bathtub was undoubtedly seeping into the ceiling of my neighbor's bathroom below. Oh heavens! As I grabbed towels and stuffed them against the wall and along the floor, it struck me that the steaming water in the tub had turned rust orange -- oh Lord, what do I do? The little red handle next to the water meter beneath the sink presented itself as my only hope; with a tug downward, the water supply was off -- and the dripping that began the disaster was the only sound that remained.

The little situation in the bathroom is still in a fix and needing to be fixed, and though the necessary fix is going to involve some complications, my left hand is not bemoaning the lack of hot water since it still feels as if it's on fire. My fix for that situation: I pulled a new container of yogurt from the fridge, pried off the lid, and stuck my hand into it. So much for those probiotics!

It's a Monday in Romania, and I've a new start-the-day-right kind of plan: more yogurt.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Nicoleta

You exhale desperation,
murmur syllables like
a sigh. Tears cut a path
down your cheek,
breaking at your feet
upon ground parched
for compassion.
I beg you, tell me the story
sliding down your face.

Cum te numesti?
Nicoleta
, you say, startled

to be no longer a beggar
but human, fitting into a plastic
bag the weight of your griefs.
The handles dig into your hand
with each step, reminding
you that this is all you have -- this
and a child to feed, he your only
crumb from the family
scattered behind.

I hug you good-bye
but am suddenly turning
back, pulling from my bag
a loaf of bread and two pears.
My hands are all that can
speak to you. Again I pull
your life into my arms,
willing upon it mercy for this
road of unforgiveness.

I glance back to watch you,
but you are already staring
after me, holding your white
bag. You wave and keep
looking over your shoulder,
like one peering through
the dusk after fading light --
but no longer are you
alone in the dark.

Someone knows your name.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Multumesc Means Thank You

My dear family and friends, buna ziua from the other side of the ocean! As if writing this blog were not difficult enough, I'm now fantastically behind. The events of a month ago seem to have already happened in a slightly different lifetime, but my! how much I have to tell you! Since it remains impossible to capture or express all that has been happening when so much comes tumbling forth from each day, I must again hope that a smattering of images will bring you alongside me. I will be posting some updates over the next week, but for those of you who were constructing all sorts of wild speculation as to my activities in this intervening time, take a look at the link below:

http://www.new-horizons.ro/about_us/staff.asp?page=4

This is real, which still seems unreal! But I could not do this alone. So many of you reading this blog are faithfully partnering with me in this journey. Your presence in my life is a precious, daily gift. No matter where I climb, you are standing with me.

"The Lord is my Shepherd; I have everything I need..." Through those of you who have been led to support me financially, God is providing for my physical needs; I am grateful for this provision at every meal. Many Romanians have asked me how I'm living here, and when I explain that the financial support of family and friends in the States is covering my living expenses, the response is always amazement. In Romania, such financial generosity is all but non-existent. One person tried to imagine asking a Romanian for financial support but, laughing at the very thought, said it would "never happen."

I am able to be here because you are there.
Multumesc from the bottom of my heart.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

La Clase de Balet: Tales from the Dancing Feet

This Tuesday, I will be teaching the Jiu Valley’s 4th ballet class! Little would I have imagined when training for years in the States that my abiding love for dance would eventually find expression in post-Communist Romania. I know many of you have been praying specifically for the little feet that would come to this hopeful ballet class, and have the little feet come indeed! I had 6 children my first class, 9 my second class, and 12 this past Tuesday! For Lupeni and the Jiu Valley, this is simply incredible. Because of the high levels of distrust and suspicion among these mothers, the increase of children every week has been an unfolding miracle.

Most of you know that the possibility for this class arose when Brandi (Dana Bates' wife who partnered with him in founding New Horizons) realized I was a dancer and asked if I would be willing to teach her 4-year-old aspiring ballerina Briana and any other little Romanian girls who might be interested. Of course, I was completely astonished and elated. As I had wrestled through the discernment process of coming back to Romania, the unexpected opening of a space to share dance was like God icing the edges of His calling.

In my first couple weeks here, Briana was ready to do ballet every time she saw me and would say, “Lindsay, let’s do ballet now!” She taught me her “magic jumps” that involved a complicated twirl in the air with one leg and both arms thrown up and told me she had been dancing for 50 years. Her enthusiasm was so affecting! The week before our first class, she also proudly gave me a formal invitation to la clase de balet, complete with an image of tutu-bedecked mice dancing en pointe.

Brandi did so much to spread the word for our hopeful class and even acquired many pairs of ballet shoes that a friend of hers collected and brought over from the States. As I walked to our class building that first Tuesday morning and pondered Brandi saying that anywhere from 2 to 6 girls might come, I felt that all 6 would be there. And -- with little feet stretching, all mothers watching, and Andreea from Uricani translating, I began my first ballet class in Romania...with 6 students! Daria, Briana, Adela, Alina, Andreea, and Rebecca were so darling, imitating my every move before Andreea could even finished translating.

The first class seemed a wonderful success to Brandi and I, but we knew that the following week would tell. As I rushed to the next class with a loaf of hot paine cu piersici (peach bread) that I'd just pulled out of the oven for snack, increase was the word on my heart. That day, children and their mothers seemed to pour through the door all at once -- and there were 9, even one boy! The grandmother of one of the girls told me her Claudia had been asking about ballet class since 7am that morning, as she did not want to be late! “Domnisoara Lindsay!” little Claudia would call to me while putting her leg up in arabesque. Another older girl who came for the first time, Diana, had been taking a modern class somewhere in Lupeni but decided to quit that class and come only to mine. It was such joy to see kids twirling, hopping, and giggling in balletic glee and to glimpse the smiles on the faces of the mothers. The class ended up having quite an audience, as Dana and two Americans visiting from Northwestern College stopped by as well. Who knew the possibilities for building social capital could be so diverse?

This past Tuesday, twelve children took the floor! 12! I've been integrating formal ballet training with all kinds of creativity and energy to make class fun and exciting. We sprinkle fairy dust on our toes when we stretch; imagine someone in the ceiling pulling on the string attached to our heads so that we stand up very tall in first position; blow a big bubble into our arms to practice ballet arms; dance phrenetically to the Nutcracker before striking first, second, or third position when the music stops; practice plies and tendus from lines in the centre; and turn en releve on ballerina toes, among many other things. We have no barre, no mirror, and no wooden floor -- yet for now, we have what we need.

This is so unique in the Jiu Valley, as no sort of ballet is available here. For these little girls, it’s the highlight of their week, and as Brandi has said for her and Briana, it has brought such life to them. My prayer since the first day has been increase – increase of joy, of life, of trust, of freedom, of children. I've been amazed and humbled to see God already working this increase, and though I do not know His purposes for our class, I just pray that His name would be lifted up by these dancing little toes.

Beyond this, I have a personal vision for beginning a dance program for adolescent Romanian girls in the Jiu Valley, and though I’d need to stay in Romania for several more years to actually get such a program off the ground, opening the Lupeni School of Ballet within the first month of being here is quite a beginning!